How to Sync Throttle Bodies on the FZ6R

[Fastprof]

The mercury filled Motion Pro gauge that I use is no longer produced(some ebay sellers still have them).

Carbtune also makes a highly regarded sync gauge:

http://www.carbtune.com/carbdtls.html

This might be the best alternative to the mercury gauges. I paid $50 for my gauges over 10 years ago, and they have paid for themselves many times over.

Great write up! I don't have the FZ6R but really appreciate the work you did.

[blazing_nitro]

Great how to...

Looks like something for more experienced mechanic.

I may ask the dealer to do it depending on costs.

[cbzdel]

Originally Posted by blazing_nitro

Great how to...

Looks like something for more experienced mechanic.

I may ask the dealer to do it depending on costs.

no need, all the steps are listed above just take your time and ask questions on here if needed, i bet the cost of the tool alone will be less than what the dealer will charge you..

[FZ1inNH]

I completely missed this when it was written. Well done! Printed and bound to the shop guide!

[arkkornkid]

Great write-up. I'm confident I can do this myself now and save the $$$

also for anyone looking for the tool, I found this while shopping around: Motion Pro Syncpro Carburetor Tuner - Street Bike - Motorcycle Superstore

and tube adaptors for Yamahas: Motion Pro Syncopro Carburetor Tuner Adapters - Street Bike - Motorcycle Superstore

so from what I can tell, for the price of paying someone to do it once, you can get the tools to DIY forever.

[DragonBlu]

The Motion Pro SyncPro is the one I have had for three years now and I feel it's a very good deal@ $99.

[arkkornkid]

Originally Posted by DragonBlu

The Motion Pro SyncPro is the one I have had for three years now and I feel it's a very good deal@ $99.

just to be sure, are the 6mm adaptors the ones needed for the FZ?

[DragonBlu]

I have not used it on this bike. I used it on my last four carb Honda 1100 Sabre. My FZ6R started running rough @ 1,010 miles and I took it to the dealer while it was still on warranty. I should have synced it at 600,so I just paid them to do it. You won't need adapters for the FZ6R that screw into anything. Just pull the plugs from the end of the hoses on the bike and plug in the sync meter hoses as per instructions above. You will need connectors (adapters) to go between the two hoses.

[butcher bird]

Originally Posted by Fastprof

I just completed my 1000 klm initial service on my 09 FZ6R and thought others might like the run down on sync'ing their throttle bodies. If you are handy with basic maintenance, you should not have problems performing this service yourself. First, you will need a sync gauge. There are many varieties of these gauges available so follow the instructions included with the gauge. I am using an older mercury gauge, but the basic principles are the same. If you have never performed this task before, it is good to have someone show you the ropes for the first time. If you already know the ropes this post will be a quick familiarization to the FZ6R's set up. Yamaha has made this much easier for us than in past models (Kudos to the engineers).

Tip: The instructions for sync'ing throttle bodies from the 07 FZ6 manual (available if you search this site) are very similar to our FZ6Rs. Note: I just finished changing the oil, so my pictures show the left side faring removed. You do not have to remove the left side faring to adjust the idle and sync the throttle bodies.

First, you need to remove the passenger seat, and then remove the driver's seat:



Next you have to remove the two panels on either side of the tank. The front of each panel has a quick disconnect fastener. You have to reach up under the faring and push the centre plunger up to release the fastener. The rear of each panel has a hex bolt. After you have the fasteners out, then carefully lift the back of the panel and pull back. The tongues at the front of each panel may require some careful angling to get them out without breaking.



Here is the quick release fastener with the centre plunger up so it can be released


Now that you have these panels off, remove the two hex bolts at the front of the gas tank


Once these bolts are removed the whole front of the tank can be lifted up. Now support the front of the tank securely with a piece of wood (aprox 16" long) or something similar that will not scratch your paint.



A good idea is to place a large fan that will blow air directly at the radiator to help cool your bike as we make adjustments. If the engine starts to overheat, you should shut the engine down to allow it to cool. Most of the adjustments are quick to do, so this really shouldn't happen.



Once you are sure your tank is secure, and your fan is on, you can now get at the idle adjustment on the left side of the bike just below the air box.



Start the bike and allow it to warm up (64 -74 degrees C should do it). You will hear the idle level off at its lowest point when it is warmed up. Now you can loosen the lock nut, and then use an Allen key to adjust the idle between 1250 - 1350 rpms.

I have mine set so the tach needle is just below the first mark after 1000 rpm. Once you have the idle set then you need to hold the idle screw steady with the allen key while tightening the lock nut. Once you are satisfied then turn off the bike and you are ready to hook up your sync gauge.

See next post

your picture showing adjusting idle is wrong procedure. you should never use
this area to adjust your idle. there is a special screw for adjusting idle as shown in service manual. manual states never using the lock nut allen head.
to adjust idle.