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| FZ6R Technical Service Bulletins and Recalls , Manuals, ect... |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Bike: 2009 FZ6R (Yes, the "R")
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Well, I haven't seen a thread discussing spark plugs, so I decided to start one. The manual says to do it at the 8k service, but I kind of went with the theory of, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". My bike has been running great, so I didn't see the need to change them at 8k. Since I just rolled over 12k miles, I decided I should change the spark plugs just for peace of mind. I did some research and concluded that the NGK iridium plugs (#CR9EIX) would be the best to replace the OEM ones. These ones are suppose to be one of the best and also last twice as long as the originals. I bought a set of four on Amazon .com for $29.60 delivered! That was the cheapest I could find anywhere. I will do a complete "How-to" write up under this thread when the plugs come in and I change them out. Anyone have experience with these iridium plugs? Does it really make a difference?
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#2 (permalink) |
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Awesome, I look forward to hearing about the upgrade, and no I am just rolling over 4k so I have a couple months until changing.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Haven't changed mine but I did check them when I turned 4000 miles over. Getting to them is a little bit of a pain. The service manual says you have to take the tank off. You can get away with just taking the front bolts off and let it hinge back. I used some rope and tied the tank up to the rafters in the garage to hold it up while I worked so I didn't have to bother pulling fuel lines etc... The rubber cover that goes under the air box is a bit of a bitch, but otherwise, it's not a difficult thing to do. Just make sure you stuff a clean rag in the intake when you take the air box off to keep things from falling in.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Why yes I do. Don't gap them!...they come pre-gapped, and if you do try to gap them, 99/100 times you will break the tips. That being said, I don't know if I would use iridium plugs in a bike that doesn't require them... but I suppose as long as they are the same temperature range as the stock plugs, it probably couldn't hurt the bike too bad...I would check with a reputable bike mechanic, and not take my word for it though before you throw them in there...
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#5 (permalink) | |
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So my question Jonkerr, why would you go through all the hassle of getting the plugs out and not replacing them? And.... how did you finally get the rubber cover off? |
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#6 (permalink) |
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I changed mine around 10k miles before my trip to vegas. It was a pain but it gives me peace of mind knowing that i can do it. I unbolted the tank and just spun it around leaving on the back end making sure not to pinch any hoses. The rubber piece came off after i cut the zip ties holding it on... make sure u have extras to replace them.
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#7 (permalink) | |
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I just hate to think I'd have to pay someone to turn a wrench. Anyone take pics? If not, I'll try to remember to get some batteries for my camera and snap a few. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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#10 (permalink) |
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I googled spark plug life and there seems to be all kinds of answers to the mileage one can expect from a set of plugs...30000 to 45000 miles for standard plugs and 100,000 miles for the long life ones...these are some of the numbers I found.
I can imagine that an engine turning at 10,000RPM will use up the plugs faster than 3000 rpm but in all honesty I cant see anyone needing new plugs on these 600cc engines till at least 20,000 miles. Probably closer to 50,000 miles before the plugs would be worn out...these are guesses on my part... Plugs on modern engines last forever compared to 30yrs ago. They were a yearly change back then. Now they can last the life of most cars !!!http://www.whybike.com/motorcycle48.htm NOTE: from above link - change them with a cold engine... And you better hope they come out nicely. From my experience with old plugs in aluminum heads you might want to spray some penetrating fluid on the threads overnight if they are tight or seized. And as you back them out go slow and sometimes reverse them back in slightly as you bring them out. You dont want contaminants on the end of the plug scoring the threads on the way out...if they are tight all the way out there will be a good chance that the threads will be damaged. You might be looking at some expensive work to fix that. I think its a good idea to put anti-seize on the threads when you re-install the plugs. This is especially important for aluminum heads. Dont over tighten either... A nice WIKI walkthrough with all the TIPS that you would ever need to follow... http://www.wikihow.com/Change-Spark-Plugs-in-a-Car Last edited by Superfly; 04-11-2010 at 09:37 PM. |
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