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#11 (permalink) |
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Bike: 2009 Yamaha FZ6R
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Maybe I'm weird, but I usually don't know exactly what gear it's in. I just up/downshift as needed to keep the engine near the middle of its powerband.
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Kent 2009 Raven FZ6R // Yamaha Raised Bubble Windscreen // T-Rex Racing Frame Sliders // Joe Rocket & Cortech Luggage |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Bike: 2009 Yamaha FZ6R
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
Posts: 425
Thanks: 72
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Not sure I quite follow you on "as I release the clutch, the bike seems to sort of jump into gear." The transmission should be in fully in gear before you release the clutch. If it sounds/feels like the gear change isn't complete until you release the clutch, you probably need to use a firmer foot on the shifter. Shifts should be quick and decisive. Squeeze - kick - release in less than a second. On the other hand, if you're saying that the bike feels jerky when you release the clutch, that's a matter of rev matching, and it gets a lot easier with practice. It's actually possible to shift without clutching at all, just by modulating the throttle. I'm not recommending that, but the point is that once you get the hang of rev matching, the clutch action becomes largely a non-issue. The only time you need to be "easing" out the clutch is starting from standstill.
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Kent 2009 Raven FZ6R // Yamaha Raised Bubble Windscreen // T-Rex Racing Frame Sliders // Joe Rocket & Cortech Luggage |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Bike: 2009 Raven FZ6R a.k.a. "Gretchen"
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One other thing for people to keep in mind when they're complaining about shifting not being smooth, this is a 470lb motorcycle with a manual transmission. Not a 4000lb car with an automatic that you can't even feel shift. Motorcycles don't shift as smoothly as a car. Plain and simple. Especially if you're a new rider, things don't feel the same on a bike as they do in a car. I've ridden my dad's Harley Fat Boy, one of the smoothest transmissions you'll ever feel on a bike, and it still feels rougher than any car I've driven, manual or automatic. One of the first times I took my wife on the back of my bike she asked me why I shifted so roughly. And I'm very smooth with my shifts. She just is used to riding in a car.
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#15 (permalink) |
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Pretty odd as when I was in my break-in period I asked my dealer mechanic who was going over the stuff with me what RPMs do I keep out of.
He said I don't have a limit, just don't keep in the same RPMs. Also keep shifting to work in the gears and don't ride the freeway, meaning I need to let the bike stop at lights and take off etc to work everything in.
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Bike: FZ6R-Cadmium Yellow
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#17 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Bike: 2009 Raven FZ6R a.k.a. "Gretchen"
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Diego (Lakeside)
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You do want to vary the RPM range a lot and shift a lot when you're breaking in. You'll do that by staying in the 3-5k range. If you hit 7k once in a while during break in you'll be fine. Just don't do it too often and don't do it for more than a second or so. You just want to make sure you've seated everything before you start winding the engine up too much.
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2009 Raven FZ6R / BT-003 Tires / T-Rex Frame Sliders / T-Rex Swingarm Spools / Custombikeparts.com FE / R6S Mirrors / LP Flushmounts / DDM HID Kit / Pro Grip Grips / Pro Grip CF Tank Pad / StompGrip Race Ovals / Pazzo Shorty Levers / GYTR Tinted DB Windscreen / R6 Header & GYTR CF Exhaust / DynoJet PCV / Marthy Maps / K&N Intake / Driven Lightened Sprocktes / EK Chain / RaceTech Suspension / MFW Vario Offset Pegs / EBC HH Brake Pads / Goodridge SS Brake Lines My Vimeo Page |
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