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Old 04-29-2010, 04:50 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Keep in mind, that I rode the bike from the dealership to my house (6 miles), swapped out the pistons for some prototype aftermarket piston and rings, changed out the cams, had the heads ported and polished, all when it had less than 10 miles on it. Then I broke it in....
What up with that?! Your just now telling us about these engine mods??!! Did you get it dyno'ed? How much? must tell us more....
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Old 04-29-2010, 08:04 PM   #22 (permalink)
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So my guy who works at cycle gear sold me Castrol Actevo X-TRA 4T. SAE 10W - 40.

Part Synthetic

Like many others though I asked about full synthetic and he said I shouldn't do it until 8k and about how it isn't until the rings are seated etc.
i'm guessing that the castrol had been sitting on the shelf for a long time and you were the right sucker to listen to them. 8k is WAY to long to wait for synthetic.. If you want to play it safe, wait till 1k, but not 8.
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Old 04-29-2010, 11:30 PM   #23 (permalink)
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What up with that?! Your just now telling us about these engine mods??!! Did you get it dyno'ed? How much? must tell us more....
Nice pick up.....now, I am going to make you wait until I unveil my total creation in the next few days in my other thread.

Dyno'ed stock, dyno'ed with some engine mods, then dyno'ed with the nitrous.

I will post the results right after all the pics of the bike together.
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Old 04-30-2010, 12:16 AM   #24 (permalink)
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i'm guessing that the castrol had been sitting on the shelf for a long time and you were the right sucker to listen to them. 8k is WAY to long to wait for synthetic.. If you want to play it safe, wait till 1k, but not 8.
Eh, oil is oil for me. I'm not racing or anything just using it for street riding. My friend whose been riding longer than me uses castrol too and they made fun of him telling him to use real oil or something.
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Old 04-30-2010, 11:11 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by husker525 View Post
Nice pick up.....now, I am going to make you wait until I unveil my total creation in the next few days in my other thread.

Dyno'ed stock, dyno'ed with some engine mods, then dyno'ed with the nitrous.

I will post the results right after all the pics of the bike together.
Suspense.....Tease......(Looks awesome already, I like the custom one of a kind stuff.)
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Old 04-30-2010, 12:56 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MikeN02 View Post
So my guy who works at cycle gear sold me Castrol Actevo X-TRA 4T. SAE 10W - 40.

Part Synthetic

Like many others though I asked about full synthetic and he said I shouldn't do it until 8k and about how it isn't until the rings are seated etc.
That's the same one I've been using since my 4k oil change and I though it worked smoother than the Yamalube. Do people consider it to be junk oil?

I'm thinking of trying out the Rotella T heavy duty stuff Jonkerr and others mentioned for my next oil change. I'm all about the cheap, but still want a decent quality, since I do oil changes frequently enough.
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Old 05-01-2010, 01:40 PM   #27 (permalink)
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i am considering Amsoil or Motul 300 for my next oil change, my last oil change was couple of weeks back at about 4k miles, i used Yamalube 10w 40 and replaced stock oil filter with K&N oil filter, now i have almost 5K miles on the bike should i change the oil filter again just coz doing an oil change with a 100% synthetic oil ??


fyi: if anyone having hard time finding K&N oil filters (model: 204), i bought it direct from K&N webstore for around 14 bucks with free shipping.
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Old 05-01-2010, 10:48 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Roaddawg View Post

I'm thinking of trying out the Rotella T heavy duty stuff Jonkerr and others mentioned for my next oil change. I'm all about the cheap, but still want a decent quality, since I do oil changes frequently enough.
I think that the upshifts with Rotella T are so smooth that sometimes I feel like I missed the shift. Like there isnt any resistance or clunk at all. It was kind of disconcerting in the beginning. For the money you cant beat Rotella T 15W40 HDEO. I'm going to try the full synthetic Rotella 5W40 next and if I get enough KMs in this summer I'll try Amsoil. Then pick which one I like best and babble to the world on this forum

Shell Rotella T - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

- Shell Rotella T Triple Protection

- Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic
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Old 05-01-2010, 11:04 PM   #29 (permalink)
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i am considering Amsoil or Motul 300 for my next oil change, my last oil change was couple of weeks back at about 4k miles, i used Yamalube 10w 40 and replaced stock oil filter with K&N oil filter, now i have almost 5K miles on the bike should i change the oil filter again just coz doing an oil change with a 100% synthetic oil ??


fyi: if anyone having hard time finding K&N oil filters (model: 204), i bought it direct from K&N webstore for around 14 bucks with free shipping.
Changing the oil earlier than the owner's manual? wow, I'm at 3700 and I'm tempted to change my oil already but am resisting until I hit 4,000. Just following it by the book.
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Old 05-02-2010, 12:07 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Superfly View Post
I think that the upshifts with Rotella T are so smooth that sometimes I feel like I missed the shift. Like there isnt any resistance or clunk at all. It was kind of disconcerting in the beginning. For the money you cant beat Rotella T 15W40 HDEO. I'm going to try the full synthetic Rotella 5W40 next and if I get enough KMs in this summer I'll try Amsoil. Then pick which one I like best and babble to the world on this forum

Shell Rotella T - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

- Shell Rotella T Triple Protection

- Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic
I used the T6 Full Synthetic and it felt great. I just read that article I mentioned and didn't want to take the chance. I just change the oil on Thursday and put Repsol 10w 40 in it. I've put about 200 miles on that oil change the last 2 days and in all honesty, I don't really feel any difference in the shifting. It still feels perfectly fine. One thing I did notice though was the clutch seems to be disengaging better. I noticed just before I changed that if I rev'd the motor when stopped at a light (there's a light down my street that never catches bikes unless you sit on the loop and rev the hell out of the motor) with the clutch in and in gear, it felt like the bike wanted to pull forward a bit. Not much but just barely. It never did that before. I figured my clutch must just need to be adjusted and I'd do that later as it wasn't really effecting anything else. But I did the same thing this morning at that light and didn't feel it at all. Don't quite know what to make of it actually.
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