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| Garage / Mechanical Help New tools, stands, projects, and mechanical help. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Bike: 07 YZF R6
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Orlando, FL
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First time oil change here, didn't even do it in a car let a lone a bike. Getting near my 4,000 mark and I need to get some oil!
Going to go to my local Cycle Gear and pick up some just need some good info, mainly what to stay away from. Since I'm going to Cycle Gear I know it won't be car oil that will blow my engine, I think I might go with Repsol since they're a known brand, full synthetic and it says it's 10-50W? What's this mean? Owners manual said to use yamaha lube 10-40W or 20-50W but I imagine it would be more expensive, plus I want a smoother shift.
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Bike: 2009 FZ6R Raven
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Los Angeles County
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Either way with an oil change, you will get a smoother shift. As far as synthetics go, you should try to stay away from them until after at least 8k. The yamalube 10w-40 will work just fine for a warmer climate. Just make sure you put the right amount and torque the drain plug to the right amount is all the other advice you really need.
Are you planning on changing the filter or waiting until the next change? |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Member
Bike: 2009 YAMAHA FZ6R
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Portland,OR
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Any cycle oil would work I would recemend 10-40, and as mentiond above maine thing is to not overtight the oil draine plug, which my son did on his bike and cause the oil pan crack , it was a very expensive oil change. good luck . Tom
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Bike: 2009 FZ6R (Yes, the "R")
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Napa Valley, CA
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I get the Castrol semi-synthetic from Cyclegear and have been pleased with it. Shifts smooth. It's usually only $5 or 6 per quart. 10W40 or 20W50 is fine, either one.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Roaddawg For This Useful Post: | 24KMACH (03-08-2011) |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Bike: 07 YZF R6
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Orlando, FL
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Quote:
I'm planning on changing it to a K and N filter. I'm scared to death of torquing now because the first time I did for my frame sliders I stripped the shavings of the engine bolt because of over tightening.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Bike: 2009 Raven FZ6R a.k.a. "Gretchen"
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Diego (Lakeside)
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Use a torque wrench. If you don't have one, buy one. It's an absolute must.
I just picked up a gallon of Repsol and a K&N. Gotta do an oil change tomorrow as well as a basic once over with the Lithium lube and torque wrench.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Bike: Yellow 2009 FZ6R, 2006 Ducati 999
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Toronto Canada
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Amsoil 10-40 synthetic is awesome for the big money spenders out there. Motul 300V is as well.
I'm running Rotella T 15w-40 HeavyDutyEngineOil right now. Might try the 5-40 Rotella synthetic next. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Bike: 2009 FZ6R Raven
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Los Angeles County
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Quote:
Don't sweat the torque, just make sure you apply the proper amount. It is actually not that much considering; only around 31 ft/lbs. Best of luck! Oh and make sure you warm up the bike before the change, and careful not to burn any skin! |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Bike: 2009 Raven FZ6R a.k.a. "Gretchen"
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Diego (Lakeside)
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I read an article that they just recently changed the formula of the Rotella and it now has friction modifiers (BIG no no in a wet clutch) in it and that it's a bad idea to use it any more. I've used it my last two oil changes but I think I had oil from before they made the change. I tried to find the article again but I'm coming up empty. I wish I had bookmarked it. That's why I'm switching to Repsol. I liked only paying $18 a gallon but if there's a chance that what I read is true, I'd rather spend the money on oil I know will be fine than possibly a new clutch.
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2009 Raven FZ6R / BT-003 Tires / T-Rex Frame Sliders / T-Rex Swingarm Spools / Custombikeparts.com FE / R6S Mirrors / LP Flushmounts / DDM HID Kit / Pro Grip Grips / Pro Grip CF Tank Pad / StompGrip Race Ovals / Pazzo Shorty Levers / GYTR Tinted DB Windscreen / R6 Header & GYTR CF Exhaust / DynoJet PCV / Marthy Maps / K&N Intake / Driven Lightened Sprocktes / EK Chain / RaceTech Suspension / MFW Vario Offset Pegs / EBC HH Brake Pads / Goodridge SS Brake Lines My Vimeo Page |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Bike: FZ6R
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
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I have that about Rotella too. I used Rotella religiously on my C50 and it made a huge difference in shifting.
If you are looking for smoother shifting, look at the shifter bushing (if the FZ6R has one). I have not had a chance to go over the bike that well yet. With my C50, there was a guy that made a replacement bushing out of a self-oiling metal (I think it was oilyte) and it made a night and day difference on that bike. |
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