First oil change

[zig308]

Did my first oil change yesterday based on some things that I had read about breaking in the bike. I'm only at 100 miles, but hey, school, work, and family don't wait...

My neighbor saved my butt with a oil filter wrench. I had bought a rubber strap wrench only to realize that there was no way I could turn it once I got it on due to the fact that there is no room to work with one of those things.

Not sure how many other people have tried this on their own, but I wanted to pass on the stuff that you'll need if you do it on your own rather than pay the dealer $250 to do it plus "check" your nuts and bolts.

• 3/8 torque wrench ($50 @ Advanced Auto)
• 3/8 extention bar
• 17mm socket (for drain nut)
• Oil filter wrench attachment (fits over the oil filter like a beanie cap)
• Torx or hex screw drivers in various sizes... a medium one and a big one to get the left fairing screws off
• Drain pan
• Shop towels

And obviously:

• "2.96" quarts Yami Lube 10w-40
• 1 Yami oil filter
• 1 Yami crush washer

The directions in the owner's manual were pretty clear, so I won't bore any newbs or pros with that info. I just would've liked to have a list of things that I needed before I started.

The things I noticed while doing this were:
A rear wheel stand will be very helpful since it was hard to get the drain pan underneath the drain with the kick stand in the way.

2.96 quarts seems rather subjective since there is no "0.96" mark on the back of the bottle.

It's almost impossible to check the oil level once you refill with 2.96 quarts since the oil is so light in color. There is about an inch worth of "XXXXX" on the dip stick, so I assume somewhere in there is good even though it's hard to see. I let it idle for about 5 minutes after refilling, then turned it off and checked it - seemed ok. Then, I drove it around the block and turned it off and checked it - "seemed" ok then too.

The screwdriver method of removal of the oil filter seemed a bit overkill. The oil filter wrench worked very easily (if you have one). I reset the new one to 12lbs with no problem. I also set the drain nut with new washer to 31lbs.

Now I'm just hoping that the auto parts store down the road takes used oil...

[stuna]

at 1500 mi mine had 4 oil changes . at no3 it came out clean

[zig308]

I'll probably leave that oil in there till Spring. No way I'm going to get 650mi on the bike before it gets cold at the rate I'm going. I'll get some fuel stabilizer when I'm ready to put it away or just try to run it all the way out of gas.

Don't think there is anything else really to be done? The bike is garage kept and usually stays about 50 degrees in there even in the winter since the garage is attached to the house.

[fstrthan_uthink]

Congrats on a job well done. When you have the right tools and parts (as you have listed), it's a lot more fun and a lot less frustrating

I changed mine at 500 miles and again at 2400, no problems at all. I use Yamalube 10w-40 and the Yamaha filter too. Both are awesome quality, so I've never seen a reason to use aftermarket oil or filters. With a torque wrench and the cap-style filter wrench, the stock oil filter is easy to remove and install, and it's a Denso-brand filter, so it's good

I'll take it to the dealer when it needs new tires, or for a valve check. Oil changes and most every adjustment (clutch, throttle, shift linkage, chain, rear shock position etc etc) are done in my garage.

Oh yea...the store should take the oil, most of the auto parts stores I've been to around here take used oil.

[stuna]

you all need to keep your recieps for proof if any warr work is needed

[jspansel]

One word of advice...

If you are going to store the bike then change the oil one more time right before you put it up. You dont want old oil sitting in the bike for months at a time without running it.

The used oil will degrade in the crankcase forming acids that can eat at the metal. You should always change the oil right before you store it and again right after you decide to bring it back out.

Also DO NOT run it out of gas! You want it to be as full as possible with gas treatment in it. If you leave air in there, there is room for condensation to form and rust up the tank possibly. You want all items of the fuel system to stay coated with gas.

Do not start the bike and let it idle during the winter either. Let it sit once its been prepared for storage. Keep the battery on a tender to keep it charged. Just letting the bike idle will drain the battery as it doesnt charge unless you are at higher RPMs. It can also cause condensation in the oil if its not fully warmed up. (Short trips can also do this).

[dart1963]

Good job, and yes, definitely save $250.
As to hex wrenches, your tool kit has those, but I invested in a set of metric hex-head sockets as it's quicker and allows you to use a torque wrench when needed.
I got these, Craftsman 6 pc. Standard Hex Bit Socket Set, 3/8 in. Drive
but any decent set would be fine.
As to putting the bike up on a stand, unless your using both front and back, you are not level and some oil could get "stuck". My drain pan barley fit under mine as well, but it did fit.
And... Walmart will take old oil, at least the one in Winchester.

[cbzdel]

screw driver method is not over kill and should be practiced at least once imo, you know if you ever run into one of those oh-$hit moments.. you never know..

thats the method I used in my write up in my oil change how to thread..

[Verranth]

The winter storage tips that were posted here seem odd to me. Does everyone here agree with what JSP said? I'm not trying to call you out or anything, as I have never "winterized" anything in my life before

So, I want to have good clean oil, a full tank of gas, stabalizer and lift front and back tires up, cover the bike, and put the battery on a tender??!!!

I get the battery tender, but I thought you were supposed to take the gas out of the bike??

Any help such as confirmation, or negation (with some source cited) would be awesome. Thanks!

[dart1963]

spot on, here's a couple of sources
How to Store Your Motorcycle for the Winter | eHow.com
Motorcycle Winter Storage - Motorcycle Maintenance Guide